Malaysia Experience

9 Days in Sarawak

This is just a quick update from an Internet cafe in Kuching.

Before I started this trip, I had never hiked 8 km (5 miles) through the jungle in the rain with a full 25-liter pack on my back. I had never encountered leeches. I had never bathed in a river while wearing a sarong. I had never traveled by longboat up a river. And now I have.

This has been a wonderful experience so far, although it has not been easy. The jungle is beautiful, filled with butterflies and gigantic clumps of incredibly tall bamboo. The heat and humidity are unbelievable. The view of Sarawak from the plane as we flew from Mulu to Kuching was all trees. I have read that the Malaysian government is turning a blind eye to clear-cutting on a massive scale, but from the air that was not apparent. I kept thinking about the completeness of the tree cover while the Iban took us upriver in the longboat, with all of us hopping out to push every now and again -- the rivers are the only roads here.

Tomorrow afternoon I'll fly north to Kota Kinabalu to begin the Sabah half of this trip.

Malaysia Bird Watching Part 2

Malaysia Travel Guide:
Aug. 7, Thursday

Barely dawn, I ventured out to check to see if any beetles had arrived during the night. It was still quite dark, A pair of Odontolabis femoralis.though the weather was fair again; but the temperature wasn't as cool as I would expect at the same altitude in Taiwan. I soon found two more female Odontolabis femoralis stag beetles and a male Dorcus/Serrognathus thoracicus? stag beetle on the balcony of the administration office. An ASHY DRONGO was also busy feeding on the numerous moths blanketing the surface of the wall. At another street lamp, I saw a WHITE-THROATED FANTAIL, HAIR-CRESTED DRONGO, and a SUNDA WHISTLING THRUSH feeding on the moths.

As the sky lit up, we could clearly see the majestic peak of Mt. Kinabalu, hidden behind clouds the day we arrived. We began birding on the paved road by the lodge, and saw CHESTNUT-CAPPED LAUGHINGTHRUSHES, CHESTNUT-CRESTED YUHINAS,Chestnut-crested Yuhinas prey on moths by street lamps. a WHITEHEAD'S SPIDERHUNTER, GOLDEN-NAPED BARBETS, INDIGO FLYCATCHERS, BORNEAN TREEPIES, TEMMINICK'S SUNBIRDS, BORNEAN WHISTLERS, GREY-THROATED BABBLERS, GREY-CHINNED MINIVETS, ASHY DRONGOS, BLACK-AND-CRIMSON ORIOLES, a VELVET-FRONTED NUTHATCH, a BARN SWALLOW, and heard CRIMSON-HEADED PARTRIDGES.

After breakfast, we headed up the road towards the power station. In the forest by the road, we saw SUNDA BUSH-WARBLERS, YELLOW-BREASTED WARBLERS, and ASHY DRONGOS. Then fog set in. We were still able to see a BORNEAN WHISTLER, LITTLE CUCKOO-DOVES, CHESTNUT-CAPPED LAUGHINGTHRUSHES, and GREY-CHINNED MINIVETS before the fog became so thick that we virtually gave up birding, not even lifting our binoculars when flocks of birds chattered loudly nearby.

I finally saw some leeches as we walked into a small trail to search for the Whitehead's Trogon. They were active little worm-like creatures crawling along the ground, and they curled up and died when I sprayed DEET insect repellent on them. The fog was still very thick, and the only bird we saw was an EYE-BROWED WREN BABBLER. We returned to the road and continued on up.

When we reached the power house, the fog was still very thick. We looked for the Mountain Blackeye, but were only able to see flocks of CHESTNUT-CAPPED LAUGHINGTHRUSHES, a SAUNDA WHISTLING THRUSH, and a flock of GREY-CHINNED MINIVETS.

After lunch, the fog finally cleared up, but then it began thundering again. We entered another trail and birded in the dark, dense forest. I thought it felt very much like birding in Taiwan, with the tree trunks densely carpeted with mosses, ferns, orchids, and the famous pitcher plants. In the dark path, we searched again for the Whitehead's Trogon, but only heard its call and didn't find it. In the forest, we saw a TEMMINICK'S SUNBIRD, OCRACEOUS BULBULS, BORNEAN TREEPIES, beautiful green SHORT-TAILED MAGPIES, BLACK and CHESTNUT-CAPPED LAUGHINGTHRUSHES, a SUNDA CUCKOO-SHRIKE, a BLACK-AND-CRIMSON ORIOLE, HAIR-CRESTED DRONGOS, GOLDEN-NAPED BARBETS, and two woodpeckers, one a BANDED WOODPECKER and the other a female ORANGE-BACKED WOODPECKER.

We then reached a shelter at the top of a hill, where we all of a sudden came across a huge mixed flock of birds, including GREY-THROATED BABBLERS, BLACK-CAPPED WHITE-EYES, BORNEAN WHISTLERS, WHITE-THROATED FANTAILS, BLACK-SIDED FLOWERPECKERS, YELLOW-BREASTED WARBLERS, MOUNTAIN LEAF-WARBLERS, TEMMINICK'S SUNBIRDS, a male WHITE-BROWED SHRIKE-BABBLER, HAIR-CRESTED DRONGOS, a VELVET-FRONTED NUTHATCH, GREY-CHINNED MINIVETS, and a GOLDEN-NAPED BARBET. What's interesting is that the name of that shelter was Bukit Burung (Mountain Bird) Shelter, probably named after the unusual congregation of birds there. Then we hiked downhill again, seeing more YELLOW-BREASTED WARBLERS and GREY-THROATED BABBLERS. By the stream on the way back, we tried to search for the White-crowned Forktail, but failed again, only to glimpse a fleeing SUNDA WHISTLING THRUSH.

After dinner, most people didn't feel like hunting for night birds again, so I went with one other birder to look for some beetles. The first one we saw was a female rhinoceros beetle very high up on a tree trunk. It was a different species from the ones we saw at Poring, but there was not way I could reach it unless I climbed the tree. We caught three more female of the large Dorcus sp. stag beetle and a female of a smaller Dorcus sp. stag beetle. Then I found another female of the Odontolabis femoralis stag beetle, the same as the ones I found in the morning. We also saw more long-horned beetles than the previous night, including the pretty Batocera parryi and a gigantic Rhaphipodus hopei. We heard some owls, but still didn't find any nightjars or frogmounths.

Day total: 32 species
Cumulative total: 139 species


Aug. 8, Friday

Odontalabis gazella.I woke up around 3:30 to check the nearby lamps again, and found a beautiful male Odontalabis gazella stag beetle. I got up again the same time as the previous morning and found the same SUNDA WHISTLING THRUSH and WHITE-THROATED FANTAIL by the same street lamp. On the balcony, there was a HAIR-CRESTED DRONGO busily plucking moths off the wall.

Then we all took the bus to the power house to bird our way down, as to avoid getting caught in fog again. We looked for the MOUNTAIN BLACKEYE again, and we found it along with ASHY DRONGOS, WHITE-THROATED FANTAILS, an INDIGO FLYCATCHER, a male WHITE-BROWED SHRIKE-BABBLER, a BORNEAN WHISTLER, and flocks of BLACK-CAPPED WHITE-EYES, CHESTNUT-CAPPED LAUGHINGTHRUSHES, GREY-THROATED BABBLERS, CHESTNUT-CRESTED YUHINAS and FLAVESCENT BULBULS. On our way down the road, SUNDA BUSH-WARBLERS were everywhere in the grass beside the road. We also saw LITTLE CUCKOO-DOVES, WHITE-THROATED FANTAILS, GREY-CHINNED MINIVETS, YELLOW-BREASTED WARBLERS, BORNEAN TREEPIES, a BROWN-BACKED NEEDLETAIL, a BAR-WINGED FLYCATCHER-SHRIKE, a GOLDEN-NAPED BARBET, and heard CRIMSON PARTRIDGES.

After breakfast, we took a trail again to give the Whitehead's Trogon another try. The forest was incredibly silent, and we saw very few birds during the long walk. This morning was bright and sunny, no signs of fog, but all we saw were a LITTLE CUCKOO-DOVES, a WHITE-THROATED FANTAIL, CHESTNUT-CRESTED YUHINAS, BORNEAN TREEPIES, and a SPECTACLED SPIDERHUNTER. I saw many leeches on the wet trail, but the insect repellent kept them off me. Even though the birds were disappointing, the walk through the cool mountane rainforest was very pleasant.

After lunch, we headed into the city to our five-star hotel, Shangri-La's Tanjung Aru Resort. We stopped at Ligas Lagoo on the side of the road and picked up some marsh birds, LITTLE EGRETS, PURPLE HERONS, a STRIATED HERON, CINNAMON BITTERNS, LITTLE TERNS, COMMON MOORHENS, EYE-BROWED CRAKES, WOOD SANDPIPERS, a RUFOUS-NECKED STINT, and an unidentified warbler which might be the Middendorff's Warbler.

At the resort, I knew there must be some nightjars around, but I was not in the mood for searching at night and stayed in my comfortable hotel room playing with the beetles.

Day total: 37 species
Cumulative total: 154 species


Aug. 9, Saturday

Early in the morning, some birders went to a nearby park and found Blue-naped Parrots and Pied Thrillers. I didn't wake up that early, but joined them later and we went to Ligas Lagoon again. There, we saw the same birds as the previous afternoon, but in much greater numbers. We also added the CRESTED MYNA, STORK-BILLED KINGFISHER, BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON, INTERMEDIATE EGRETS, a black PACIFIC REEF-EGRET, and a LITTLE RINGED PLOVER. I was a bit disappointed not to see the Purple Swamphen or the Comb-crested Jacana.

After breakfast, we traveled by boat to Manukan Island of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park. I rented a mask and snorkeled in the reefs just off the sandy beach. Huge schools of fish gathered around me as soon as I entered water, probably used to being fed. I got out the bread I brought and colorful fish of all shapes and sizes gathered in a frenzy in front of me. The schools of fish followed me wherever I went, and where even annoying at times when the school was so dense that they blocked my view! This was the first time I've snorkeled in this "underwater rainforest" and I was totally fascinated by such an astonishing habitat and its inhabitants. At first, I tried to remember the characteristics of each fish so I could look up what species they were after I returned, but I soon gave up as the number of different species added up so fast that I couldn't keep track; I was seeing a new type of fish like every minute or so! I didn't know the name of the fishes I saw, but I remember seeing many species of parrotfish, anemone fish, damselfish, surgeonfish, angelfish, butterfly and bat fish, puffers and porcupine fish, triggerfish, the barracuda-like garfish, blue starfish, a jellyfish, spiny sea urchins, sea cucumbers and hundreds of other types of marine life.

I had such a great time underwater that I didn't mind missing whatever bird inhabited the forested little island. Before we left, though, I managed to see a PIED THRILLER, a WHITE-BELLIED FISH-EAGLE, and some terns, including a COMMON TERN.

Day total: 23 species
Cumulative total: 159 species

Malaysia Bird Watching Part 1

Malaysia Travel Guide: After birding in Taiwan for nearly three years, I found it harder and harder to add more species to my life list of birds. I've always enjoyed the trip reports other birders have posted on BirdChat and the accounts of trips to Nepal, India, Malaysia etc. published in the Wild Bird Society's magazine, and I always felt jealous about how I've never had such exciting birding trips when I travel with a tour group; so I asked my parents to let me go on one birding trip somewhere in South East Asia before I graduate from high school. After much persuasion, they finally agreed, and I chose to go on the Wild Bird Society of Taipei's foreign birding trip to Sabah, Malaysia of Borneo during my summer vacation. I was very grateful and very excited, for this is my first real birding trip outside Taiwan. I hoped to see some of the fascinating birds and wildlife of Borneo's tropical rainforests so often depicted in nature films, though also reported to be disappearing very quickly.I would like to express my thanks to all BirdChatters who responded to my RFIs on field guides and leeches. A Field Guide to the Birds of Borneo, Sumatra, Java and Bali, recommended by every reply I received, turned out to be the most important tool I used on this trip (other than binoculars, of course). I also want to thank Stanley Song who brought the book back from the States for me; I wouldn't have known how to purchase it otherwise. I received a whole bunch of replies about leeches, which I read carefully and decided that using insect repellent with salt was the easiest method. The only leech-repelling ingredient mentioned by BirdChatters which I could find in insect repellents was DEET, which worked wonderfully well; so I did not have any trouble with leeches at all on this entire trip. Thanks again for everyone who all helped make this trip the most exciting birding trip I've ever had!


Aug. 1, Friday

We arrived at the Sandakan airport in the afternoon. As our bus drove out of the airport, I caught a glimpse of SPOTTED DOVES on the grass and a STORK-BILLED KINGFISHER perched on a wire. We had a Malaysian tour guide, who is a birder and has led previous trips to Sabah. After we checked into Sanbay Hotel by the coast, our guide took us to the temple on the hill behind. Soaring before and above us were dozens of WHITE-BELLIED FISH-EAGLES and BRAHMINY KITES. Then a different raptor alighted on a dead branch. At first sight, we thought it was a Bat Hawk; but our guide disagreed, and upon closer observation, we discovered that it was in fact a RUFOUS-BELLIED EAGLE. On the roof of the temple stood some WHITE-BREASTED WOOD-SWALLOWS, who occasionally took off to harass the eagles. Also darting in the air were BLACK-NEST SWIFTLETS and GLOSSY SWIFTLETS. In the young forest surrounded the temple, we found a pair of ASHY TAILORBIRDS and lots of YELLOW-VENTED BULBULS. In the grass were flocks of BLACK-HEADED MUNIAS mixed with some DUSKY MUNIAS, the first bird we saw endemic to Borneo. Returning to our bus, we saw two SPOTTED DOVES, a WHITE-BREASTED WATERHEN, and at least a dozen PINK-NECKED GREEN-PIGEONS feeding in a bush. A large dove flew by which the guide said was a Mountain Imperial-Pigeon, but I thought it looked more like some kind of green pigeon and did not count it. 15 species already, not bad!

Day total: 15 species
Cumulative total: 15 species


Aug. 2, Saturday

Early in the morning, we headed towards Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre to bird. We walked the last couple kilometers, looking for birds by the roadside. It was very open habitat, previously burned rainforest with secondary growth, coconut and banana trees growing. There we saw COLLARED KINGFISHERS, SPOTTED DOVES, BLUE-THROATED BEE-EATERS, YELLOW-VENTED BULBULS, BLACK-HEADED MUNIAS, LONG-TAILED PARAKEETS, a fledgling RUSTY-BREASTED CUCKOO, a male SCARLET MINIVET, a DOLLARBIRD, a CHESTNUT-BREASTED MALKOHA, GREY-RUMPED TREESWIFTS, ASIAN GLOSSY STARLINGS, a HILL MYNA, CHESTNUT-RUMPED BABBLERS, a STRIATED HERON, some PIED FANTAILS, and lots of tiny sunbirds and flowerpeckers such as the OLIVE-BACKED SUNBIRDS, CRIMSON SUNBIRD, PLAIN-THROATED SUNBIRDS, YELLOW-RUMPED FLOWERPECKERS, an ORANGE-BELLIED FLOWERPECKER, a SCARLET-BACKED FLOWERPECKER and another unidentified flowerpecker-like bird that was greyish green all over except for bright orange bill and feet. To finish off the list, I happened to spot a male WHITE-BELLIED WOODPECKER while scanning the dead tree branches.

Afterwards, we entered the rainforest in the Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre, but only saw RED-EYED BULBULS, though there were groups of Pig-tailed and Long-tailed Macaques and a mother Orang-Utan with a young at the feeding platform. Near noon, we birded some more and saw a huge Red Giant Flying Squirrel glide from one tree to another. The only birds we saw were a BROWN BARBET and a couple RAFFLE'S MALCOHAS.

In the afternoon, we went on the same road we came in again. A couple new species were the MAGPIE ROBINS, a pair of SUNDA WOODPECKERS, a RUFOUS PICULET, a LESSER COUCAL, YELLOW-BELLIED PRINIAS, ASHY TAILORBIRDS, PACIFIC SWALLOWS and SILVER-BACKED SWIFTS drinking over a pond, and a female RUBY-CHEEKED FLOWERPECKER. Around dusk, our guide told us to return to the gate of the Orang-Utan Rehab Centre to wait for parakeets to arrive. Surely enough, LONG-TAILED PARAKEETS showed up exactly at the time our guide predicted, though he said that there were far fewer parakeets now than what there used to be.

After dinner, I strolled around looking for nocturnal insects and birds. I only discovered a couple Rhinoceros Beetles Oryctes rhinoceros, a green cicada Dundubia vaginata, katydids, and a small praying mantis. I didn't even hear a single owl or nightjar.

Day total: 44 species
Cumulative total: 46 species


Aug. 3, Sunday

This morning, instead of birding nearby as scheduled, we decided to head to Gomantong Cave to see the swiftlets nesting cave. On the bus, we passed kilometer after kilometer without seeing any sign of virgin forests, only cleared land and palm plantations. This made me wonder whether it was true that much of Borneo was still covered with tropical rainforest.

We finally reached some rainforest only after we entered the gates of the forest reserve. We got out and birded on the paved road. This was secondary lowland rainforest, so birding wasn't easy with the the tall trees and dense foliage. The first birds we saw were a pair of BAT HAWKS in the sky. At the edge of the forest, we saw PIED FANTAILS, SOOTY-CAPPED BABBLERS, RED-EYED BULBULS, BLACK-NAPED MONARCHS, a GREATER GREEN LEAFBIRD, a SCARLET-RUMPED TROGON, a LITTLE SPIDERHUNTER, a female GREY-CHINNED MINIVET (very doubtful), a pair of WHITE-FRONTED FALCONETS, ASIAN FAIRY-BLUEBIRDS, a RUFOUS PICULET, LARGE-BILLED CROWS, a WRINKLED HORNBILL, RHINOCEROS HORNBILLS and ORIENTAL PIED HORNBILLS. Soaring in the sky was a CRESTED GOSHAWK, a STORM'S STORK, and another unidentified raptor. We even saw a huge Monitor Lizard as we passed a small stream. In the forest near the entrance of Gomantong Cave, we saw a male WHITE-BROWED SHAMA, a group of RAFFLE'S MALKOHA, a CHESTNUT-WINGED BABBLER, and an ORIENTAL HONEY-BUZZARD. A fallen Black-nest Swiftlet.At Gomantong Cave, there was an astonishing number of BLACK-NEST and EDIBLE-NEST SWIFTLETS, though almost impossible to distinguish from each other. Their nests covered the cave walls, shared by an equally astonishing number of roosting bats. Here, collectors harvested the swiftlets' nests in particular seasons, protecting the population from over-exploitation. When the nests are collected, the eggs or young birds must be sacrificed, one reason why it's inhumane to eat bird nest soup. On the floor of the cave, I discovered quite a lot of fallen swiftlets that were not able to fly again, though even now we still couldn't really tell whether they were Black-nest or the Edible-nest Swiftlets. There was nothing we could do to help these swiftlets, so we just put them on the wall of the cave hoping that they'll be able to gain enough strength to fly again.

As soon as we left the reserve, we were traveling in palm plantations again. A number of times, we traveled in clouds of stinking smoke as the rainforest was being cleared. The burning of rainforest.In the middle of nowhere, our guide suddenly spotted a fruiting fig tree by the road, and we all got out to watch RHINOCEROS HORNBILLS, ORIENTAL PIED HORNBILLS, and an ASIAN BLACK HORNBILL feeding happily on the figs. Ironically, as we enjoyed the hornbills on one side of the road, we could hear chain saws churning and see smoke rising from the opposite side of the road; the whole area had been cleared and the dry forest was burning furiously.

We reached the riverlodge at Sukau and birded for a while during lunch break. We saw a COMMON IORA, a BLACK-AND-YELLOW BROADBILL, and a female MAROON-BREASTED PHILENTOMA in the trees right outside our lodge. In the afternoon, we took a boat trip up a stream to search for birds and monkeys. In the swamp forest and by the river, we saw BLUE-EARED KINGFISHERS, a STORK-BILLED KINGFISHER, a STRIATED HERON, LARGE-BILLED CROWS, BLACK-NAPED MONARCHS, CHESTNUT-RUMPED BABBLERS, a pair of MALAYSIAN BLUE-FLYCATCHERS, a CRESTED SERPENT-EAGLE, a WHITE-CHESTED BABBLER, and ORIENTAL PIED HORNBILLS. We were well-entertained by primates, including Long-tailed Macaques, endemic Proboscis Monkeys, and an Orang-Utang, rare in the area. We also got a good look at a smaller Monitor Lizard on the bank of the river.

After dark, our guide told us that the Buffy Fish-Owl would come to the river by this lodge every night around 9 PM. Before then, I walked along the lamps of the lodge collecting insects. I didn't find very much, only a pair of Cyclommatus terandus stag beetles and some small but shiny dark brown scarab beetles. I also saw a foot-long gecko on a wall, some large Swallow-tailed Moths, and bats flying around the lamps. I heard some owl hoots, but wasn't able to identify them. Every once in a while, I checked the riverside for the fish-owl, but had no luck. I became even more frustrated after hearing that most of the other birders had already seen it; some even discovered a Brown Wood Owl too. Upset and deeply disappointed, I finally gave up the search around 11 PM.

Day total: 45 species
Cumulative total: 76 species


Aug. 4, Monday

Early in the morning, I took a short stroll around our lodge hoping for some new birds. I expected to be greeted by cool, fresh air when outside, but was instead surrounded by the stench of burning wood. I had noticed the previous day smoke from the forest further upstream, which was probably where the small was coming from. Despite my disappointment, I added a flock of RUFOUS-TAILED TAILORBIRDS to my list, as well as a COMMON IORA, DUSKY MUNIAS, RED-EYED BULBULS, and a WHITE-BELLIED FISH-EAGLE.

After breakfast, we went in the boat again and headed towards Ox Bow LakeA Blue-eared Kingfisher. further upstream. From the boat, we had a good look at a flock of LONG-TAILED PARAKEETS, some GREAT EGRETS, lots of BLUE-EARED KINGFISHERS, two ORIENTAL DARTERS, and a pair of RHINOCEROS HORNBILLS flying across the river.

We landed on the shore and walked along jungle paths looking for birds. I saw a female RUFOUS-BREASTED PHILENTOMA, a male ASIAN FAIRY-BLUEBIRD, a SOOTY-CAPPED BABBLER, two WHITE-CHESTED BABBLERS, a CHESTNUT-WINGED BABBLER, a YELLOW-BREASTED FLOWERPECKER, a male RED-NAPED TROGON, and a BLACK-AND-RED BROADBILL. In the mud on the jungle floor, we could see the prints of many wild animals such as the Common Barking Deer (Bornean Red Muntjac), Sambar Deer, Clouded Leopard, Bearded Pig, Asian Elephant, and a type of civet. We were warned that leeches were common in the jungle there, so I was well prepared, covering myself with DEET insect repellent and having a bit of salt handy. Interestingly, nobody encountered any leeches this day, probably because it hasn't rained in many days and the forest was dry.

On the boat ride back, we passed a patch of rainforest being cleared by burning right next to the river. We still saw some birds, however, such as BLUE-THROATED BEE-EATERS and a GREY-CAPPED WOODPECKER. We also met some more Monitor Lizards; apparently, these dragon-like beasts were very common. As we ate lunch at the lodge, two huge Giant Squirrels, almost like monkeys, appeared in the trees outside.

Using the rest of the day, we traveled back to Sanbay Hotel. That night, there was a thunderstorm, our first shower on this trip.

Day total: 33 species
Cumulative total: 82 species


Aug. 5, Tuesday

The weather wa bright and sunny again in the morning. We ate breakfast at the hotel, then traveled for the entire morning to Poring Hot Springs. Even though I wasn't very happy about wasting the precious morning, I was eager to reach Poring to see some virgin lowland rainforest within the boundaries of Kinabalu Park.

Again, we passed through vast stretches of palm plantations. We took short stops at a couple jungle reserves to do a bit of birding. At the first reserve, we saw a pair of WHITE-FRONTED FALCONETS on a dead tree. At the next reserve, the Sungei Sapi Virgin Jungle Reserve, I saw a BLACK-AND-YELLOW BROADBILL and a female RUBY-CHEEKED SUNBIRD. Both reserves seemed like they were large islands of rainforest surrounded by palm plantations, though it says they were more than 600 hectares each.

We stopped to eat our packed lunch at a place where there was secondary rainforest on both sides of the road. In the sand, we saw the tracks of a Clouded Leopard. We also discovered a nice DOLLARBIRD, but there was very little bird life active in the midday heat.

When we finally arrived in Poring, we set off birding immediately. Near the headquarters, I saw an immature BLACK-HOODED ORIOLE and an adult GREATER RACKET-TAILED DRONGO feeding an immature. Different types of squirrels were also around, but I only identified one species as the Kinabalu Squirrel (but still not 100% certain), using the new field guide I bought: A Field Guide to the Mammals of Borneo. After we checked into our rooms, we went birding again. This time, we saw large flocks of CHESTNUT-CRESTED YUHINAS, a pair of DARK-THROATED ORIOLES, and a couple BLACK-WINGED FLYCATCHER-SHRIKES. Just then, we got caught in a thundershower, so we raced back into our rooms.

Chalcosoma atlas (top) and Chalcosoma caucasus (bottom).After dinner, we went out to look for nightjars, frogmouths, or owls. Before we finished eating dinner, I had already caught some large Three-horned Rhinoceros Beetles, including the Atlas Beetle (one of the largest in in the world) Chalcosoma atlas, and probably also some of the similar-looking Chalcosoma caucasus and Chacosoma moellenkampi. We walked along the paths and roads checking the tree branches, wires, and grass with our flashlight. On a tree trunk, we saw a Green Lantern Bug Pyrops sultan with the unusual protrusion out from the top of its head. A pair of Chalcosoma caucasus.Then the found bright red eyes on a tree branch reflecting our lights, it turned out to be a Slow Loris (like a sloth), not a bird. We heard a very close MOUNTAIN SCOPS OWL, but the vegetation was too thick and we weren't able to find it. After an unsuccessful hunt, I returned to beetle-collecting. Within half an hour, my insect boxes and bottles were teeming with the Three-horned Rhinoceros Beetles. They were mostly females, but also no less than a dozen beautiful males. I also found some stag beetles, but not as many as I expected. Finally, I found some beetles on this trip! This was also the most exciting beetle-collecting trip I've ever experienced.

Day total: 17 species
Cumulative total: 89 species


Aug. 6, Wednesday

We only had a morning to bird at Poring, so we birded around our lodge before breakfast and saw flocks of CHESTNUT-CRESTED YUHINAS, LESSER GREEN LEAFBIRDS, a BLACK-AND-RED BROADBILL, a MOUNTAIN IMPERIAL PIGEON, a pair of DARK-THROATED ORIOLES, GREY-HEADED FLYCATCHERS, RED-EYED BULBULS, SPECTACLED BULBULS, ASHY BULBULS, OCRACEOUS BULBULS, a SCALY-BREASTED BULBUL, RUFOUS-TAILED TAILORBIRDS, SCARLET MINIVETS, PYGMY WHITE-EYES, a LITTLE SPIDERHUNTER, ORANGE-BELLIEd FLOWERPECKERS, and a RED-THROATED BARBET.

After breakfast, we took a jungle trail to see some birds in the forest. At the edge of the forest, we saw a male WHISKERED TREESWIFT, a male CRIMSON SUNBIRD, a PLAIN SUNBIRD, a female GREATER GREEN LEAFBIRD, and some GREEN BROADBILLS. Even though birding was difficult through the dense vegetation and tall canopy, we saw a RUFOUS-TAILED TAILORBIRDS, a WHITE-BELLIED YUHINA, RED-EYED BULBULS, a PUFF-BACKED BULBUL, a RUFOUS-TAILED JUNGLE FLYCATCHER, a GREATER RACKET-TAILED DRONGO, a HORSFIELD'S BABBLER, two CHESTNUT-WINGED BABBLERS, a pair of immature WHITE-BROWED SHAMA, and a LARGE HAWK-CUCKOO. At a small waterfall, we searched for the White-crowned Forktail, only to hear its fleeing cry. Instead, we saw a pair of CRESTED JAYS by the stream with their unusual hooked crests protruding from the top of their heads. Then we took a steep hike to Bat's Cave, where we saw EYE-BROWED JUNGLE-FLYCATCHERS, a LITTLE FLYCATCHER, an adult and an immature CHECKER-THROATED WOODPECKER, and a flock of RAFFLE'S MALKOHAS. Male Archduke butterfly (Lexias pardalis) at Poring.I was lucky and did not see any leeches on this trip so far. This time, two birders got leeches, one less severely bitten than the other.

Poring was the best place we've visited thus far, and I wished we could have spent more time there. I did not have time to visit the canopy walkway or their butterfly farm, which was slightly disappointing.

Looking out the window on the way to Kinabalu Park, I saw some WHITE-BREASTED WOOD-SWALLOWS and a kingfisher I couldn't identify, but guessed it was probably a Rufous-collared Kingfisher. When we finally arrived at the Kinabalu Park headquarters, at an elevation of 1524 meters, we set off to bird for the remainder of the afternoon. At a small tree bearing berries by the parking lot, we easily discovered BLACK-CAPPED WHITE-EYES, INDIGO FLYCATCHERS, and a pair of LITTLE PIED FLYCATCHERS with an immature. As we walked along the paved road, I noticed that this mountane rainforest was very different from lowland rainforest; the temperature was also much cooler. I stopped at a vending machine by the fitness center and was surprised to find a male Odontolabis femoralis stag beetle and a female Dorcus sp. stag beetle on their backs. I decided to return again after dark to search for more beetles. On the road, we saw CHESTNUT-CAPPED LAUGHINGTHRUSHES, flocks of YELLOW-BREASTED WARBLERS, MOUNTAIN TAILORBIRDS, and CHESTNUT-CRESTED YUHINAS. We entered a trail and met a mixed flock of BORNEAN WHISTLERS, WHITE-THROATED FANTAILS, and YELLOW-BREASTED WARBLERS. As we birded, the sky grew dark and there was thunder and lightening, so we walked back, seeing BORNEAN TREEPIES, GREY-THROATED BABBLERS, MOUNTAIN TAILORBIRDS, WHITE-THROATED FANTAILS, and a GOLDEN-NAPED BARBET along the way.

We were lucky and it did not rain, so I managed to see a large flock of BORNEAN TREEPIES and CHESTNUT-CAPPED LAUGHINGTHRUSHES, and an adult with an immature ASHY DRONGO before dinner.

After dinner, we went out to search for nightjars or frogmouths again. Lightening was flashing brightly and the booms of thunder were deafening, but we still began our search anyway. Soon, it began drizzling, and the group decided to turn back. I hurried to the vending machine to search for beetles, but there weren't any rhinoceros or stag beetles, there there were a lot more moths than at the previous locations. On the way back, I picked up a female Odontolabis femoralis stag beetle under a street lamp, but that was all for the night. After returning to our rooms, it began pouring and continued to thunder.

Malaysia Sabah

Where is Sabah?

Sabah is on the northern tip of that mystical Island of Borneo, the world’s third largest island. Also known as the “Land Below the Wind”, Sabah lies below the typhoon and monsoon belt, and is thus sheltered from the more dramatic caprices of tropical weather. In the South, Sabah borders its neighbouring Malaysian State Sarawak, and the Indonesian State of Kalimantan. Sabah’s West Coast is flanked by the South China Sea, and the North and East Coast by the Sulu Sea.

Click here for a map of Sabah
Information on Kota Kinabalu, Sabah’s Capital


Geography and Climate:

Sabah has an area of 7,362,000 ha and measures roughly 1700 kilometers along the north-south axis, from the very Tip of Borneo to the deep interior south of Long Pa Sia, and about 2100 kilometers on a west-east axis.

Located just below the typhoon and monsoon belt at equatorial doldrums between roughly 4° N and 7° N, Sabah boasts a fine tropical climate, with uniform temperatures averaging from 23° C to 33° C and a mean humidity of about 90% for town and plain areas. Rainfalls are copious, accounting for Sabah’s lush vegetation, and generally two seasons are distinguished: the rainy / wet season, and the dry season. The wet season starts in November, with the onset of the northeast monsoon in Peninsular Malaysia and ends towards April, with the most rain falling in January.

The climate on Mt Kinabalu, the highest mountain between the Himalayas and Papua New Guinea is of course a completely different story. Its many climate zones have allowed a unique, and in many places endemic flora & fauna to develop. For the traveller and especially those who want to climb Mt Kinabalu, it is important to know that the mountain tends to concoct its own climate, and a raincoat and some warm clothing for the climb are de rigueur. Temperatures on the peak may drop to 0° C!

If you are interested in climbing Mt Kinabalu, click here to be taken to the most popular Mt Kinabalu Trekking packages.

Flora & Fauna:

Sabah’s lush jungles – the oldest rainforest in the world – have provided an ideal playground for nature. The world over, scientist travel to Sabah to study the unique nature of this part of the our planet, and only slowly we begin to realise what treasure nature has given to us. Some parts of Sabah’s extraordinary rainforest have not yet been developed into palm oil plantations and are protected as National Parks. Sabah has also some of the most astounding diving destinations on earth, the underwater world offering just as many wonders, if not more, than Sabah’s rainforest.

From the largest flower to the smallest deer in the world, flying lizards and flying frogs, orang utans and proboscis monkeys, black orchids and nepenthes (pitcher plants) with pitchers that contain more than two liters of liquid, from Borneo’s only elephants to the exceedingly rare Sumatran rhino, Sabah really has it all. It might be difficult to make choices but here are some direct links to the most popular tours – let yourself be inspired:

Sandakan – Gateway to Sabah’s unique wildlife
Sandakan – Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre
Mt Kinabalu National Park - Malaysia's First World Heritage Site
Klias Wetlands – Fire flies and Crocodiles
Danum Valley – Untouched rainforest with World Class accommodation
World Class Diving in Sipadan

Features:

Tabin Wildlife Sanctuary
Tawau Hills National Park

Culture and People:

Sabah boasts not less than 32 indigenous ethnic entities, speaking as many languages and over 50 dialects. The main indigenous group are the Kadazandusun, living in the plains in and around Kota Kinabalu. Once primarily farmers, they are now mostly engaged in salaried employment in a variety of jobs from industries over tourism to the government sector. The second most important group are the Bajau, once a seafaring Muslim tribe and sometimes referred to as ‘sea gypsies’, though only a handful of Bajau still live the ancient life of the true nomads of the seas. They have settled along the coast in typical villages, often built right over the water. The third most important ethnic entity in Sabah are the Murut, an interior tribe once famous for its intrepid warriors, and reputedly the last to give up the ancient custom of head-hunting. The most important non-indigenous people in Sabah are the Chinese, and many businesses are run by Chinese families. All this gives Sabah an almost bewildering multi-cultural and multi-religious aspect, yet everybody lives together in harmony. This multi-faceted cultural patchwork is probably best experienced in sampling foods throughout Kota Kinabalu, a veritable cultural melting pot…!

Most Popular Tours:

Homestay programmes with the Locals
Visit a traditional Bajau Village
A trip to the interior to visit the Murut people

Features:

Learn more about food in Sabah
The Murut
The Kadazan
The Rungus


Adventure Tourism in Sabah:

Tourism in Sabah has become a major economic activity. Long left outside the beaten track of the larger tourism routes, Sabah has retained much of its charm and relaxed attitude, and its people are overwhelmingly friendly. There are some adventurous tours on offer: for most people, climbing Mt Kinabalu is already an adventure in itself, though shared with many same-minded climbers… a thrilling experience is certainly the Padas White Water Rafting, and if you are looking for true trekking adventures through some of Sabah’s last truly undeveloped areas, trekking in the Crocker Range might just be what you look for.

Most Popular Tours:

Climb Mt Kinabalu
Padas White Water Rafting
Trekking in the Crocker Range

Features:

Climb Mt Kinabalu over Mesilau
How to Get to a Traditional Dusun Wedding in the Crocker Range

Celebrations

Sabah is a place where there is not a single month in the year without any special celebrations. People of many creeds and from different cultural backgrounds share this unique place, and make it their home. They all observe their very own celebrations, and national celebrations are shared by all. The most elaborate celebrations, and maybe the most colourful month of them all is May, marked by Sabah's Harvest Festival. You are invited to participate and join us!

Click here to go to our Events and Celebrations page

Features:

The Pesta Ka’amatan – Sabah’s very own harvest festival

Malaysia Trip

6 Days / 5 Nights Kuala Lumpur / Cameron Highlands / Penang

Day 01 Arrive Kuala Lumpur ( Dinner )
Upon arrival in Kuala Lumpur you will transfer to your hotel.
In the afternoon we have some free time to relax and unwind after our flight.
Mingle with the locals and take in the different cultures of Malaysia while experiencing Kuala Lumpur at dusk. Visit Sri Mahamarimman Temple, the largest and most ornate Indian temple. Enjoy this time to practice your bargaining skills in Chinatown with its many different shops and markets. Enjoy a sumptuous Malaysian buffet dinner and cultural show to end our first evening in KL.

Accommodation is at the Novotel Century Hotel

Day 02 Kuala Lumpur ( Breakfast )
After breakfast, proceed for sightseeing of Kuala Lumpur covering the National
Monument, King’s Palace, Independence Square the world’s tallest flagpole, drive pass the Railway station, impressive features in Sultan Abdul Samad building and
Royal Selangor Pewter Factory.

Overnightaccommodation is at the Novotel Century Hotel

Day 03 Kuala Lumpur / Cameron Highlands ( Breakfast )
After breakfast take the road which gently winds up to the Cameron Highlands passing through villages, forest clad mountains and scenic valleys.
Enroute, you will visit an aboriginal village where you can watch a demonstration on the uses of a blowpipe - an ancient hunting weapon of the natives. With the cooler climate at its peak unusual vegetation proliferates. View the many tea plantations, vegetable gardens and colourful nurseries. Check in to your hotel.

Accommodation is at the Equatorial Hotel

Day 04 Cameron Highlands / Penang ( Breakfast )
Before departing for Penang we will visit the morning market and learn about the many types of fruits, vegetables and flowers available in these highlands. Enroute to Penang we will visit the Caves Temple in Ipoh to learn about the Buddhist, Taoist and Confucius beliefs. We make a stop at Kuala Kangsar and see the enchanting Ubuddiah Mosque. Then cross the Penang Bridge deemed the 3rd longest bridge in Asia to Penang, the " Pearl of the Orient" Upon arrival we visit the Snake Temple – a sanctuary where poisonous vipers coil around the pillars, beams and potted plants within the temple. Check in to your hotel.

Accommodation is at theCasuarina Beach Resort

Day 05 Penang ( Breakfast )
This morning we embark on a city tour of Georgetown. Begins a visit to the ruins of Fort Cronwallis, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha – Wat Chayamangkalaram and the Burmese temple. We continue and drive downtown to see the remnants of colonial shophouses and visit a waterfront clan village where you will see houses on stilts and your guide will explain to you on the way about the daily life of this community.
We return to our hotel in the afternoon to soak up the sun and relax.

Accommodation is at the Casuarina Beach Resort

Day 06 Penang ( Breakfast )
Continue for beach extension or departure transfer to airport.

Malaysia Vacation Guide

Sarawak is one of Malaysian states that is on the Borneo island. It is a fasnating destination, nicknamed Bumi Kenyalang which literally means "Land of the Hornbill". Here are 10 things you ought to try when you're in Kuching, state capital of Sarawak.

1. Taste Kuching's favourite noodle dish called "kolo mee". This simple noodle dish with slices of barbecued pork, a sprinkling of spring onions and a bowl of soup drives Kuchingites (that's what we call people from Kuching) abroad mad with desire. Available at most coffeeshops and cafes in Kuching. If you can find "kolo mee", you should also try the spicy Sarawak laksa, another specialty dish of Sarawak.

2. Try "umai". "Umai" is the Melanau's version of the Cantonese 'yee sang' (raw fish salad). Imagine a fiesty salad of shallots, raw fish, lime juice and salt.Never leave without giving this dish a try!

3. Take a boat ride to the other side of the Kuching River for 30 sen (or USD 0.10) The non-motorised boat ride goes across the Kuching River in just under five minutes. It's a slow and beautiful boat ride across a lovely river. Where to go for this boat ride? Just get to the Kuching Waterfront, the pride of all Kuchingites.

4. Hang loose at the Waterfront. It's a hip and happening place to be when the sun sets even if you're only sipping "teh tarik" which is hot tea with milk. Watch the world go by or observe the boats ply the river.

5. Support the local pepper industry! Sarawak pepper is world famous so don't even think of leaving the place without grabbing all sorts of pepper paraphernalia - from pepper sweets to pepper perfume!

6. Bite into a crispy "tebaloi" This traditional biscuit of the native people of Sarawak is made from another famous Sarawakian export, sago.Sago flour imparts a distinctive taste to this biscuit. It even comes in chocolate flavour, besides the usual traditional recipe.

7. Buy yourself a "pua kumbu" A pua kumbu is a handwoven cloth used by Iban tribe, inspired by their dreams. The intricate colours and superb workmanship makes each piece a work of art. Get yourself one if you can afford it.

8. Explore the national parks! Sarawak is teeming with national parks so go on the adventure of your life. Experience wildlife like you've never seen before. Start with the famous Bako National Park. We assure you it won't be your last.

9. Take home some lovely pottery! From rustic jars to pots, from vases to pen holders, there's nothing like an authentic Sarawakian pottery to remind you of this laidback land, showcasing the best of native culture.

10. Enjoy the Sarawak Cultural Village The Sarawak Cultural Village is hailed as Asia's best living museum, showcasing Sarawak's native peoples, their lifestyle, their homes and their culture. Just 45 minutes by car from the city of Kuching, this village of 14 acres will astound you with the wondrous diversity of people and their culture. If there's only one place to visit while you're here, make it the Sarawak Cultural Village.

Malaysia Travel

Immediately after they walked into the fitness/pharmacy shop, they were accosted by the cherub-shaped Chinese salesman with the single-hair protruding cheek mole.

"Massage for you" was all the warning he had before the man began buzzing his shoulders with the hot pink and green vibrating dildo. Standing next to him, Li Hsien began cracking up while he stood there stunned.

By the time the salesman had moved the rod up for a scalp massage all three were laughing hysterically, (along with the nearby cashier) though he realized that the salesman did not realize exactly what was so funny.

Apparently, the vibrating dildo was legitimate massage paraphernalia and the salesman had no idea of the original product market, though the massager was almost assuredly a big hit with the old Chinese aunties.

After gaining composure, they thanked the zealous salesman for his demo and went on to the insect repellent section, their original goal.

They were on their way to Malaysia and reports of occasional cases of malaria and dengue fever were enough to stir him to grab some "off" with its 100% DET contents. Mosquitoes would flee in terror at the lethal combination of chemical weapons and the electronic mosquito-exploder swatter he’d bought in Taiwan which looked like a badminton racket but with electrified netting to suck in the flying pests and shock them with enough volts to cause them to explode with a satisfying "pop".
Langkawi Beach
[Beach in Langkawi]

With repellent in hand, they weaved their way around the evil waddling massage troll and made their way out of the Great World Shopping Center and went Back to the Straits Times Building (where Hsien worked) to get the car.

He returned home to do laundry and then pack for the weeklong expedition from Singapore up the West Coast of Malaysia to the island of Langkawi on the border between Thailand and Malaysia.
Malaysian Church
[Malaysian Church]
Fortunately his flatmates Nick and Ray were not home so that he could use the dryer without freaking them out. You see, dryers are considered really weird in Southeast Asia. Most people prefer to hang-dry clothes.

So every time he used the dryer he felt as if they were thinking he was quite the weirdo. For him, dryers seemed very natural and convenient especially compared to hanging clothes for three days in the humid Singaporean weather.

Anyway, the next day, they started out at the reasonable hour of 9:30 AM. Hsien’s father had agreed to drive the four of them (Hsien, Richard, him and Allison) to Johor Bahru (JB) which was just across the causeway bridge that connected the island of Singapore to the Malaysian mainland.

Eric on Deck
[Eric on Deck]
Hsien’s father had intended to get one of the family cars fixed in JB where services like auto maintenance were much cheaper. So he had offered to drop them off at the Budget car rental office on the way.

It took them about 15 minutes to traverse the entire island of Singapore from North to South on the BTE (Bukit Timah Expressway) but about 40 minutes to get through Malaysian customs. He had recently sent his passport through the washing machine and had sadly gotten a new one, so this was his first stamp in the new book.

Johor Bahru

JB is a border town proper, much like Tijuana; skanky, and dirty with heavy traffic, hordes of moneychangers,
Trishaws in Melaka
[Trishaws in Melaka]
black market street stands, and a constantly changing stream of faces.

But JB is also a town on the rise. Attracted by the stable political climate and a low wage margin, investors have been pouring in for the last decade. Also, Singaporeans flock across the causeway on weekends for cheap products, food, and a thriving underground nightlife...er...um...

They had brunch in a hole in the wall hawker shop while the paperwork was being completed at Budget. He had chicken rice and was careful not to dowse it with too much chili-garlic sauce since it would be 4 hours to the next toilet. The woman in that course, gruff, grunting hawker stall-Chinese way said,
Karaoke Stars
[Karaoke]

"Chicken rice, ah. Packet?"

"No eat here".

"ah (referring to him)...uh? (referring to the next person)".

And she was off to grab one of the chickens dripping off a meat hook in the shop window and one of those awesome thick chopping blades.

The food came in a minute or two, so much for fast food being a western specialty.
Red Square
in Melaka
[Red Square]

The road to Melaka (this first day’s destination) would offer only "stooper poopers" with a bucket of water or faucet and hose for cleaning. Yes, that is right. No toilet paper allowed. Malaysia is a right hand only eating country if you catch the drift. It is considered very unclean to wipe with paper. Water, to many Malaysians is the only sanitary way to clean. As a result, there weren’t even TP roll dispensers in the bathrooms, just the evil looking hose.

Malaysian Sunset
[Malaysian Sunset]
Once again, he was happy to have the opportunity to drive in a wrong-side drive country. So long as there was a steady stream of traffic, of course, driving was no problem. It was only on the deserted roads that he ended up drifting into the lanes for oncoming traffic or making right hand turns into the right hand lane. Whatever the case, driving in Malaysia was far less stressful than driving in Bangkok.

KL Tower
[KL Tower]
Navigation on the other hand, was seriously tough. He learned early on that the Malaysian government was so thrifty as to provide only one street sign per turn off perhaps 50 meters before the exit. Of course, most of those signs were 50-75% covered up by foliage or had already fallen to the ground, so the one warning was fairly laughable.

As the highway from JB to Melaka was a maze of minor turn-offs onto criss-crossing highways, U-turns were the rule.

But with four of them on navigation duty, they eventually found their way out of the JB suburbs and onto the four-lane North/South highway which slices its way up the west coast of Malaysia hitting or grazing all the major cities and towns including JB, Melaka, KL, Ipoh, and Penang where they would be stopping.

Thatching
[Thatching]
From JB to Melaka, the road was an endless stream of palm oil plantations with their low, thick lines of palm trees stretching off into the rolling Malaysian countryside.

Melaka

Melaka is quite different from JB. One of the oldest cities in Malaysia, with recorded history as far back as the 14th century, Melaka does have a permanence and calm to it unlike JB which is all flux. However, it is not a city tied to its past either. In fact Melaka, as much of Malaysia seems to be caught in that awkward stage between modernity and traditionalism with an uneasy foot in both.

Francis Xavier
[Francis Xavier]
Truthfully, he didn’t much like Melaka. It seemed dirty, drab and trafficked. However, it was a nice stopping point for a day and a night.

In Melaka they visited the primary tourist trap, the Red Square and in particular the one-armed statue of St Francis Xavier which they had laughed heartily about while reading aloud about Melaka in the car.

The statue paid homage to a saint who was said to have miraculous powers. The tale went that the pope requested an arm be sent to Rome from Xavier’s dead body and that the wound flowed blood even though Xavier had been dead of 62 years. At any rate, somewhere along the line, someone had chopped off the arm of St Francis’ statue and it became a tourist attraction.

Wall in KL
[Wall in KL]
The cities only other place of interest was the "House of the Babas and Nonyas." There are two unique ethnic groups in the Straits. One group, the Eurasians, is a group of mixed blood descendants of the Portuguese colonial period.

The other group is the Peranakans who are composed of Straits-born Chinese that have adopted a quasi Chinese/Indian/Indonesian/Malay habit. This group of inhabitants are descendants of male Chinese traders and Malay local women and their cultural heritage extends back to the 15th century. The Peranakans are known for their unique food, architecture/interior design, and their wedding ceremony.

The House of the Babas and Nonyas (mother and father) are a tribute to Peranakan culture, architecture, and life. The house can be seen by private walking tour with English-speaking guides.

Petronas Towers
[Petronas Towers]
Next morning, they had breakfast of Teochew porridge, which is essentially chicken rice soup with hardly any broth, and then split, having seen as much of Melaka as desired.

They had a long drive up to the island of Penang next.

The drive through Penang cuts through the tin town of Ipoh set within a picturesque limestone valley. They stopped in Ipoh for lunch.

Monkey
[Monkey]
Like Thailand, the food courts in Ipoh had a central, and he thought, inconvenient, pay point instead of the Singapore-style where one pays at the stand he eat at.

Penang

Though there were sites to see in Ipoh, the group decided to keep on driving after lunch in order to arrive in Penang at an earlier hour. In fact, because of a traffic jam in Penang's capitol, Georgetown, they arrived in the late evening, checked into the Garden Inn, and headed out for dinner at the next door "Winston Coffee Center" which was a haven for old Chinese guys who wanted to smoke, talk and eat really greasy local food while watching karaoke lounge babes belting that special kind've obnoxious Cantonese vibrato.

It was quite the sleaze joint. But it was also full of energy and the food was great. Of course it followed the general rule that when you see a bunch of "C" health ratings posted, the food is excellent. "A" restaurants are typically sterile tasting.

Open Durian
[Open Durian]
The next morning they had to wake up quite early in order to catch the ferry from Penang to the island of Langkawi. So they had decided to stay near the port; hence the sleaziness of the hotel and the food center.

However, both the hotel, with its paper thin walls, pay by the hour theme, transvestite "masseuses", and smoky lobby and the sleazoid and grimy Winston Coffee Center definitely had their charm.

The ferry terminal in Penang was empty at 7AM. They'd arrived early since they'd not purchased tickets in advance and wanted to be first in line at the ticket counter. Only two or three early bird dock workers shuffled around the dusty jetty and buying tickets was no problem.

No Durian Sign
[No Durian Sign]
Like all docks, the seawater was somewhat murky and a thin layer of oil refracted the morning sun into iridescent rainbows across the surface. However, given the unhealthy conditions, nature had still maintained its dominance. Jellyfish and dozens of medium-sized fish could be seen below waking up and catching breakfast. The jellyfish splayed themselves across the top of the water as if sunbathing.

Eventually the crew and several passengers began to appear and they boarded the double-decker hydrofoil that would make the three-hour journey from Penang to Langkawi Island. They settled in and waited until the boat filled up and pulled out of the dock heading for the open sea.

Malaysian Market
[Malaysian Market]
For him, the trip was pleasant. He was not one to get seasick, so the storm waves did not do much to his stomach. 'Storm waves'? A yes, right. Well, soon after the boat disembarked, they were overtaken by one of those fantastic tropical storms with rain so hard it can knock one down, and so thick that it can virtually blind you. What made things worse was the fact that the crew had asked everyone to go indoors which meant that the seasickness-prone members of the group could not sit on deck where they could focus on the horizon and be cooled by the sea breeze.

Rambutan
[Rambutan]
However, in the end, none of the party used the supplied plastic bags. Instead, they bounced their way up to the dock in Langkawi and ran off the boat onto the covered dock through the waterfall that poured between.

They quickly grabbed a cab driver from the anxious and loud wall of local touts and made the twenty minute drive to the other end of the island.

Langkawi

Open Rambutan
[Open Rambutan]
Langkawi is in the Andaman Sea, off the northern border of Malaysia and the Southern border of Thailand. Thus, the style, people, food, and lifestyle were much like places he'd seen in Thailand. The island is fairly self-sufficient with vast tracks of rice paddies covering the flatlands. Water buffalo roamed happily through the paddies in herds and chicks ran wild everywhere.

The locals are mainly farmers but do support the tourism machine as well. The dress is typically Malay. Men wear simply and grungy pants and shirts and women wear brightly colored baju karong or kabaya with full hair-covering headgear in that particular blend of tropical Asia and Islam. Most people walk or ride aging bicycles or mopeds.

Langsat Fruit
[Langsat]
The island is oblong with a great deal of flatland for farming and a mountainous area in the interior. Most of the resorts lay on the North of the island opposite the port and a cement factory.

They checked into the Holiday Villa Langkawi and were greeted by a "No Durian" sign that had he and Richard in stitches because Allison and Hsien had been threatening to eat durian everyday during the trip and durian in any enclosed space is an evil situation.

Durian is a local favorite fruit that looks like a solid green morning star with spikes jutting out of the head- shaped body. Inside is a fleshy fruit that tastes and smells like dog crap. Well, at least to most uncultured "ang mo's". Anyway, the smell is so powerful and durable, that it reeks up a car or hotel room for days.

Allison and
Richard
[Allison and Richard]
At any rate, after some chiding, they checked in and stowed the luggage. It was mid-afternoon by the time they hit the pool and it was still pouring rain. But tropical rain is always an exquisite pleasure to swim in.

After swimming, and a game of water frisbee, they all checked in to the hotel spa and had 45 minute traditional Malay massages. Unlike Thai massages, there is no cracking of joints. The Malay version relies heavily on deep muscle rubs (like the Swedish style) with an abundance of oil and powder. He thought is was somewhat relaxing but preferred a more forceful style for his computer-programming damaged joints and muscles.

After the spa was dinner which was primarily composed of Malay traditional dishes such as Laksa (a rice noodle dish in a Tamarind base soup with a fishy flavor), Nasi Lemack (coconut rice with chili paste and boiled egg, fried nuts, and chicken or fish), Fried Kway Teow (thick flat noodles with beef, chili, and Chinese broccoli), Inchi Kabin (spicy fried chicken and sweet sauce), Soto Ayam (Malay Chicken soup) and curried meats and BBQ chicken wings.

Tower in KL
[Tower in KL]
The next day began fairly late as the weather tended to imbue laziness and since they'd been going full steam ahead since Singapore. They phoned the tout from the day before and he agreed to shuttle them around all day for $15 a head.

Initially, they hit the regular tourist spots such as the tomb of the unfairly accused maiden and the traditional stilted Malay house with singing dudes. The whole thing was okay but pretty deeply unimpressive. So quickly they realized that they had to take a bit more control over the itinerary and just instructed the driver to hit a beach and let them wander around some deserted coastline for awhile.

The rains had cleared up and they had a leisurely walk down a crescent shaped lagoon. Of course, the rain had muddied the water, but it was still warm and calm to swim in.

At the point of the lagoon a wide channel opened up which separated the beach from a small island ripe for exploration. He and Hsien crossed the channel to explore while Allison and Richard 9who were not as good swimmers) stayed on the beach to swim and relax.

However, soon after they reached the island, and spent some time browsing the sand for shells, another flurry whipped up out of nowhere and they were pelted with stinging rain again. They sought shelter in a small protected bay near a wall of boulders and waited out the storm. Meanwhile the channel got more and more violent and wavy.

When the storm eased, they made their way back to the channel. As they emerged from the rocks, they saw Allison and Richard who were quite relieved to see them, who had taken shelter under some trees, and who were just about ready to go call for help.

Waterfall Jump
[Waterfall Jump]
However, the two on the beach waved them back yelling across the channel that the current was too string and the waves too choppy to make a crossing. However, it seemed safe enough to him. At worst they would be carried off into the center of the lagoon and could swim in. Both felt as if they could make the swim, so they started the crossing.

Fortunately, the current's bark was worse than its bite and they easily navigated the channel. Unfortunately there were quite a few now submerged rocks and both got several cuts on their legs. But all was well, and they made it back in one piece.

Eventually, they got back to the van completely drenched and guiltily had to wake up their peacefully sleeping driver.

From there, they went for lunch, stopping long enough to raid a road-side fruit stand where they picked up durian, mangosteen, and rambutan. The Malay durian was much less fragrant then the Singaporean stock so it was more palatable 9though he still had to hold his nose to get it down). The rambutans with their bright red spiky whiskers were nice (basically huge grapes) and the mangosteens (sweet nectarine like taste) were great!

Waterfall
[Waterfall]
After lunch, they headed back inland for the waterfalls that by now were swollen with runoff. We had a few hours left before we had to return to the resort so we went to the falls with the shorter hike. However, he thought that it was also the less touristed one which was good. He was pleased to see a deep pool at the base of the falls which was great for jumping. The climb up the side of the waterfall was challenging but possible and after several attempts, he found a path. There were several good jump spots but since the deepest point in the pool was only 6 or 7 feet and not overly wide, it demanded exacting aim.

And the best news of all was that none of them got any leeches while hiking in and out of the falls area. It was not unheard of for leeches to sometimes fall out of the trees onto hikers or to wait on leaves for passing animals.

The next day was spent in the bounds of the resort. They had to catch the taxi back to the port by 5, so they decided to stay close by. That was fine though because it gave him time to rent a jet ski and thrash around for awhile.

It was actually very fun. If one went out beyond the sheltered bay at the resort, one could find nice sized swells to jump.

Rice Fields
[Rice Fields]
The weather had cleared up again and he got fairly red on his nose and shoulders, but fortunately did not get burned. Another benefit of the kind weather was that the ride back to Penang was calm and relaxing. They sunbathed, sprawled out on the deck and watched the sun set over the horizon.

That night they returned to the Garden Inn in Penang. However, this time they had more time to play in the city and were hot to find an ultra sleazy karaoke lounge so that Richard could have his first Asian karaoke experience. With little trouble, they found a joint fairly near the hotel and went in.

The patrons and employees double tacked furiously as they entered. Surely they can't mean to be here! The place was filled with old Chinese uncles drinking bad beer served by Karaoke wenches on their laps. They were shuffled upstairs to the private rooms and commenced to blare out all the worst from the Bee Gees to the Beatles and from Spice Girls to the Cardigans. They even found a swing danceable song and performed for the hostesses who gigglingly crammed at the small window to peer in at us.

Haggard and hoarse throated, they returned to the Garden Inn in the wee hours and crashed.

The next day they drove all the way back to Kuala Lumpur (KL) and spent the afternoon shopping. In the evening they had Thai food in a trendy neighborhood like old Town Pasadena or Boat Quay in Singapore. They had intended to go to a KL club that night, but everyone was so tired after eating that they totally wussed out and went back to the hotel (which was a five star palace in central KL). The next day, they saw all the sites of tourist-oriented KL and then made their way back to JB to drop off the car and catch a ride back into Singapore.